Lots of water content in the kernels, and when they hit hot oil they get very excited. MUCH fluffier than normal.

If you call the number (customer service) and give them the model number of your fan, they will very likely send you a capacitor for free.

I had similar issues with my fan and found some help here and at Installing ceiling fan squido page.

Thanks for helping out

For some folks, and I include myself, I reckon the puzzle intrigues. At first it’s a steep learning curve, the time commitment is significant, unless you already have existing skills in related areas (such as already knowing how to use a volt-ohm meter to perform continuity and resistance tests [also measure voltages and currents] and a general idea of the differences in AC vs DC). These are kind of ubiquitous meters, useful in a lot of areas where basic electrical measurements need to be made, and low-end or bargain-basement models can be obtained today for about $5 + shipping. One would allow you to trace the wires that you’re worried may be disconnected without disassembling the unit further, but if you don’t have such a meter and have never used one, it could seem overwhelming to understand how to do so, or even how to go about doing so by reading the schematic. There’s the additional problem that the generic schematics are only a rough guide, meaning that while tracing the wires you would probably want to note any variances from the generic schematics and record that into a more specific schematic for your particular fan, unfortunately, then an evaluation could be required to discern a broken wire vs a design difference, my guess is this could be considered an even higher level skill set.

Your words about crying made me recall a psychology 101 (or maybe a 200-series class) professor who claimed that crying was a healthy thing to do. I doubt if it will mysteriously help directly with the broken fan, but if you feel like crying, by all means, do so. I should add, don’t forget to laugh about it later!

Good luck!

Thanks for taking the time to try to help. Maybe it’ll mysteriously start all by itself, well, hopefully after I flip the wall switch.

Loretta

One of the commenters in the companion post (next one) said that if one of the coils wasn’t energized (don’t remember whether they said the Run or Aux [auxiliary] coil), the fan blades would still, eventually, turn at some, presumably very slow, speed (going from memory).

I guess the second thing I’d check, presuming you did reconnect all the junction box wires correctly, is whether sliding the reverse switch from one position to the other helps. Sometimes that switch gets stuck in the middle, even though they’re not designed to stop at that point: when they do, they’re essentially in an off position. According to the schematics I’ve seen, that switch only connects to one coil. The first thing is whether the fan blades are stuck, perhaps by something that has gotten bent out of its normal position and which might be creating friction, essentially stopping the blades. When the power is off, they should spin freely by hand, and not make any repeating noises or scraping sounds.

You also wrote that you were worried you twisted some wires. Maybe you should check that out, see if any wires twisted themselves out of their connection points.

I don’t have a good capacitor tester, they’re kind of pricey, or they used to be. Even with such a tester, I’ve personally seen a small engine condenser (which is a type of capacitor ["points and condenser", prior to electronic ignition]) that tested okay (on someone else’s pricey tester) but failed to allow the engine to start, and when replaced, the engine started fine. Anyway, another commenter mentioned they had a noisy fan, some kind of hum, and replacing the capacitors fixed the hum.

Trying to troubleshoot without making any tests at all is hit and miss.

If anyone has insight into my dilemmna or could direct me to the appropriate site please let me know.

Thanks

I like the fan and don’t want a new one.

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